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Top Attractions of Córdoba: Why You Should Visit
Overview
Of all the medium sized cities in Spain that I have visited, I can honestly say that Córdoba is different in a very special way.
Yes, it has its cathedral, UNESCO status, Alcázar and Roman Bridge, just like many others, but:
Highlights
- Its streets are narrower;
- Its buildings are more interesting and better maintained;
- Its cathedral is unique in that it is a combination of a mosque and a church; and
- It does tapas and flamenco dancing as well, if not better, than anywhere else.
Also, unlike Toledo, which also has narrow streets, it actually has many more places where you can sit outside and enjoy a drink or meal.
The Main Square (Plaza de las Tendillas, Córdoba)
Disappointments
If there are disappointments, these are limited to the Roman Bridge and the Alcazar.
- In the case of the former, the foundations might be Roman, but the presence of reinforced concrete parapets and modern day paving detracts significantly from its Roman origins.
- The latter was inaccessible during my visit, due to renovation works.
History
That said, the city has all of the authenticity one would expect from a location with an area-wide UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.
It is a very long established settlement with its mix of:
- Jewish and
- Christian Romanesque and Gothic
places of worship
This, combined with its Roman links, demonstrates the longevity of its history, from some 2,000 years ago through to the present day.
The Cathedral Bell Tower and Outer Courtyard Wall
Location
Set at the foot of the Sierra Morena Mountains, amongst a surrounding landscape of millions of olive trees, this Andalusian city is the third largest in the province, after Seville and Málaga.
Spending two nights in Córdoba as part of any grand rail tour of Spain is highly recommended.
It is less than two hours’ train travel from Madrid and ideally located for onward travel to other UNESCO cities such as Seville, Toledo, Málaga and Granada.
The train station is about 1.5 kilometres from the centre of the old city. Only some €6 by taxi, so not worth the effort of walking unless you’re on a very tight budget.
View of the Guadalquivir River, taken from the Roman Bridge
Key Attractions
Key things to see while in the city are set out on the map below:
Location of Key Attractions in Córdoba
This includes visiting:
The Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral)
The History
The current building was originally constructed as a mosque by Emir Abd al-Rahman, a Moorish (Muslim) leader, at the end of the 8th century. The chosen site was near the location of an earlier Roman temple and on top of a 6th-century Christian Visigothic basilica known as the Church of San Vincente.
Following the defeat of the earlier Christian Visigothic community in Córdoba, the Moors ruled the city for over two centuries. At the time of its construction, this mosque was the third largest in the muslin world.
Subsequently, following internal infighting and the eventual defeat of the Moors in the 12th century, King Ferdinand III of Castile reconsecrated the mosque as a Christian cathedral and later, in the 16th century, the current cathedral building within the inner area of the mosque was commissioned.
Today’s structure is an amalgam of the two.
My Reflections
As can be seen from the photos below, this building is really stunning.
Somehow, the contrast between the outer Mosque areas and the inner Christian church areas seems to blend seamlessly together.
In addition, the fact that the building itself is set in its own tranquil courtyard, with the church’s bell tower being divorced from the main building, just adds to its overall appeal.
This is definitely one of the most interesting cathedrals that I have visited in Spain; perhaps even in Europe as a whole.
Córdoba: Mosque-Cathedral, E-Ticket with Audio Guide
The Mezquita-Catedral, Córdoba – The Original 9th Century Outer Moorish Mosque Structure
The Mezquita-Catedral, Córdoba – The Newer 16th Century Inner Catholic Church Structure
The Jewish Synagogue and surrounding Jewish Quarter
The History
The synagogue was built in 1315 and sits in the heart of the Jewish quarter of the old city, a labyrinth of narrow streets.
In the late thirteen hundreds, through a series of pogroms, culminating in a massacre of the jews in 1391, the Jewish population was made to feel unwelcome and was encouraged to convert to Catholicism or leave the country.
Ultimately, in 1492, Jews throughout Spain were banished from the country under the terms of the Alhambra Decree (Edict of Expulsion), unless they converted to Catholicism. This led to the widespread enactment of the Spanish Inquisition (established in 1478), which sought, through interrogation, to identify those remaining practising Jews (and followers of other non-Catholic religions) and expel them.
The Spanish Inquisition remained in place for 350 years and sought to unify the country around the singular Catholic cause.
My Reflections
Walking around the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba brought home to me just how unjust history has been to those who practise Judaism. It just seems very depressing how, in terms of their story, history just goes on repeating itself.
I had no idea about this dark part of Spain’s history. Yes, of course, I had heard of the Spanish Inquisition, but mainly I must admit, thanks to John Cleese and the Monty Python team. I had no idea that it was part of such a sinister plot.
Further Reflections from a Time Past
For some reason, although not directly connected, my visit to Córdoba’s Jewish quarter brought back harrowing memories of a particularly disturbing afternoon I spent while working in Warsaw, Poland, some 30 years ago.
That afternoon I retraced the route taken by Warsaw’s Jewish population, from Warsaw’s old city Ghetto to the Nazi concentration camp trains, during WWII. By the end of that afternoon, having spent time reading numerous wall plaques relating the story of the walk, I found myself in tears and wondering how the world had ever reached such a terrible state.
I didn’t realise, at that time, or indeed, perhaps up until now, that what the Nazi’s did in WWII was just a reenactment of previous atrocities.
Within the current European political theatre, with the continuing rise of the right, it doesn’t bode well for the future, does it?
We really do need to move away from a culture that is based around creating tensions between people’s different religious and ethnic backgrounds and find ways of living together.
As John Lennon once said,
Imagine there’s no countries
It isn’t hard to do
Nothing to kill or die for
And no religion too
Imagine all the people
Living life in peace…
You may say I’m a dreamer
But I’m not the only one
If you’re in Córdoba and want to find out more about the history of the city’s Jewish community, you might be interested in the following:
Córdoba: Jewish Quarter Walking Tour
The Jewish Synagogue, Its Entry, Its Interior and Its History
Street Scenes, the Jewish Quarter, Córdoba
The Roman Bridge
The History
The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir River is worth visiting, if only for the views it offers back to the old city.
This bridge lies on the site of the original Roman Bridge built in the 1st century BC. It has since, though, been rebuilt several times, firstly by the Moors in the 9th century and subsequently again in the 14th century.
This latter rebuilding included the provision of defensive towers at the northern and southern ends of the bridge,
The bridge was declared part of the wider UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and has subsequently been refurbished yet again at the start of this century. This has included the provision of the aforementioned paving materials and the parapet walls.
My Reflections
As already set out, I was generally underwhelmed by this particular Roman Bridge, especially given that its only functions today are those of a tourist attraction and a pedestrian route.
Basically, I am somewhat surprised that greater care was not taken when choosing materials for the latest renovation.
The Roman Bridge, Córdoba
View of the Mezquita-Catedral from the Roman Bridge, Córdoba
Exploring the Narrow Streets of the Wider Old City
Getting lost more generally in the myriad of narrow flower lined streets.
Calle de Flores (a celebrated ‘flower’ street) with the Cathedral Bell Tower in the background
The Private Flower Patios
Visiting the private flower ‘patio’ displays around Calle de San Basilio is a ‘must do’ activity, particularly during May when the hard work of the area’s residents is judged in the annual competition.
Tickets to visit the Patios can be obtained either from local operators such as Patios de Córdoba or through reputable international tour guide companies.
I’m sorry to say that my experience with buying a ticket through a local operator was far from good. After purchasing the ticket to gain access to the organisation’s patios in the Calle de San Basilio area, I discovered that many of the patio owners were not members of the scheme and demanded an additional payment to enter their properties.
Maybe I was just unlucky, but I unfortunately think there may be advantages in purchasing an all-in guided tour ticket from an international tour agency as an alternative. This way, you should guarantee access to a selected number of patios, and you also have the advantage of having the services of a guide who will explain each display to you. This option is, though, more expensive.
Córdoba’s Authentic Patios: 2-Hour Tour with Tickets
It is also worth noting that the displays are not available for viewing in July and August.
Private ‘Patio’ flower displays in the San Basilio area
Sampling the Tapas and Local Wines
Córdoba is one of those places where sightseeing is just part of the story.
The laid back bars and eateries of the old city provide an ideal way to spend the afternoon or evening trying out the local tapas, sherry, wine or beer.
The local tabernas offer up a wide range of local tapas delicacies including salmorejo (cold tomato based soup), rabo de toro (bull tails stew) and berenjenas con miel de caña (fried eggplants drizzled with cane honey), all washed down with a glass or two of Montilla-Moriles (a local sherry based wine).
If you want to find out more about the local wines and tapas offerings in the Córdoba region, the following wine and tapas tasting evening may be of interest.
Córdoba: Local Wine and Tapas Tasting Evening
Tourist Spectaculars of Flamenco Dancing and Equestrian Displays
If you are into tourist spectacles, you should take in a local flamenco show at the Tablao Flamenco. Tickets are available below.
Tickets for a flamenco show can be obtained here
Publicity photo for the Tablao Flamenco, Córdoba
Alternatively, there are also equestrian shows at the Caballerizas Reales (Royal Stables). Tickets for these events can be obtained below.
Tickets for a 90 minute show can be obtained here
Publicity photo for the Royal Stables, Córdoba
The Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs
On top of all the above, there is also the Alcazar. Although closed for refurbishment during my visit, it will, when it reopens, provide another compelling reason for visiting Córdoba.
The complex has its origins in the time of the Moors, although most of the existing buildings date back to the 14th century. In its time, the Alcazar has served as a defensive fortress, a royal castle, the headquarters for the Spanish Inquisition and, more recently, in the early 20th century, as a prison.
Behind its thick outer walls and defensive towers, the Alcazar contains, together with its internal buildings, magnificent planted and water filled courtyards.
A real treasure to this area of Spain and another constituent part of Córdoba’s city-wide UNESCO heritage status.
Alcazar of The Christian Monarchs Tickets and Tour
The Outer Walls of the Alcazar, Córdoba
Where to Stay
While I was in Córdoba, I stayed at the centrally located Hotel Córdoba Centro.
It is located right in the centre of the old city, near Plaza de Las Tendillas. Its location is ideal for sightseeing, with all of the old city’s sights within easy walking distance.
The only possible issue, as I found out, is if you are allocated a room overlooking the pedestrianised street outside – What people find to do, and more importantly to talk about, in the street at 4 am is beyond me.- Just ask for an inner courtyard room when booking to avoid this potential problem.
Anyway, in June at least, it was very reasonably priced for such a hotel (€65 per night). It additionally has an associated pastry shop where a good continental breakfast of toast and coffee can be purchased for less than €5.
Find out more about Hotel Córdoba Centro
If you want to explore the accommodation options within Córdoba, the following interactive map may be useful.
Conclusions
Overall, I had a really good experience during my two days in Córdoba. The city provides an ideal mix of authentic sightseeing attractions, particularly:
- the cathedral
- the Jewish synagogue and Jewish quarter; and
- the flower patios
and a laid back atmosphere where spending some time enjoying:
- a coffee and pastry during the day; and
- a glass of local wine and some tapas in the evening
are perfect activities.
Based on my experiences, I would highly recommend a visit to Córdoba.
Useful Resources
If you want to undertake long distance travel adventures in Europe, similar to my journey through Spain, then the following resources could prove useful in planning your trip.
Train Tickets
InterRail travel passes, ranging from country specific to Europe-wide, and valid for just a few days or up to three months, can be obtained at:
If you buy your InterRail pass in the November Black Friday sale or the March / April Spring sale, you can usually get a 25% discount on the price of all passes. Additionally, if you are under 28, you get an extra 25% discount anyway. Similarly, an extra 10% discount is also available for those who are 60 or over.
Alternatively, individual Europe-wide train tickets can be booked online using the link below:
This website provides all the details you need, train times, connections and prices, and it also allows you to book tickets there and then online. No need to navigate train operator sites, translate from a foreign language or deal with currency conversions.
Accommodation
Budget hostel, private apartment or hotel accommodation can be found using this link to Booking.com, the most trusted accommodation booking service on the internet.
Luggage Storage
If you haven’t got time to stay overnight in any place, but still want somewhere to store your luggage during the day to go sightseeing, Radical Storage are brilliant.
They have a network of luggage storage facilities in most towns and cities worldwide. You can reserve a space online and pay by iPay or similar just a few minutes before you need to drop your luggage off, or book in advance.
The website will give you a quotation, issue you with a QR code to show to the local operator and provide directions to the shop / facility (together with a grid reference).
Nothing could be simpler. They also provide luggage insurance just in case something goes wrong. Hopefully you won’t need it – in my view, it just illustrates their trust in their local partners.
Find out more about Radical Storage
Further Reading
Other Detailed Local Area Posts from my Travels
Details of My Many Long Distance Overland Adventures
Useful Country Factsheets
Earn Income From Your Travel Activities
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