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Harz Narrow Gauge Railway
What’s It All About ?
Today it’s all about narrow gauge railways and steam trains.
The Harz Narrow Gauge Railway system dates back to the end of the nineteenth century and consists of three lines:
The first (the Selke Valley Railway) runs south-westward from the UNESCO listed town of Quedlinburg to Eisfelder Talmuhle, via Stiege.
The second (the Harz Railway) runs north – south from Wernigerode to Nordhausen Nord, via Drei Annen Hohne and Eisfelder Talmuhle.
The third (the Brocken Mountain Railway) ascends Brocken Mountain from Drei Annen Hohne.
In all, the system makes up one of the most extensive narrow gauge railway systems in Germany, if not in the world. The system is connected to the wider ‘full size’ DB rail network at Quedlinburg, Wernigerode and Nordhausen Nord, meaning that it continues to have an essential local community function as well as its more recently acquired role as a tourist attraction.
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What Does The System Look Like ?
The arrangement of the full system is set out in the figure below.
Most of the system lies in the former East German State and was restored in phases as a working entity after the end of World War II.
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Is It Part of the InterRail Network ?
For the information of InterRail pass users – it should be noted that this narrow gauge rail system does not form part of the InterRail network. However, at the time of my journey (Sept. 2022) Germany’s Deutsche Bahn has a 9.0 Euro network wide monthly travel card offer in place and I make use of this instead (this offer excludes use of Inter-City high speed trains though).
Where Does My Journey Start ?
My journey starts from the historic UNESCO town of Quedlinburg and proceeds in a number of stages all the way to Wernigerode, changing trains at Alexisbad, Stiege and Eisfelder Talmuhle.
Initially, I intend to take a side diversion at Drei Annen Hohne to the top of Brocken Mountain but am beaten by a lack of time. In fact time constraints, combined with a mixture of a lack of Wi-Fi connections, nonexistent German language ability and the absence of any paper map or timetable lead to a very frustrating day.
My problems start before I even board the train in Quedlinburg. Building works at the station mean that accessing the train platform is far from easy. Inadvertently I misunderstand the instructions from the lady at the booking office and waste 15 minutes wondering around all sides of the station before finding my way to the platform.
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Changing Trains En-Route is a Nightmare
Subsequently, trying to fathom out which train is going where at each change point along the journey proves much more difficult than anticipated:
What Happened at Alexisabad ?
At Alexisbad I have no idea how long I might have to wait for the next train or where it might actually be heading – there are no timetables to view anywhere, no signs to see and no one to ask about anything.
What Happened at Stiege ?
At Stiege, after boarding what I decide is the onward train, it departs from the station in the same direction as we arrive. Convinced I am on the wrong train I have several ‘Fawlty Towers’ type conversations with other non-English speaking passengers and am resigned to arriving back at Alexisbad. Much to my surprise however we do eventually arrive in Eisfelder Talmuhle with knowing looks from my fellow travellers. Subsequently, after viewing a detailed map I realise that Stiege station lies at the start of the branch line to Hasselfelde, rather than on the main line, explaining the reversing actions.
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What Happened at Eisfelder Talmuhle ?
Finally, at Eisfelder TaImuhle I am faced with a choice of three different stationary trains, all going different ways and a total lack of information. Somehow, through use of a mixture of hand gestures and poorly pronounced iterations of Wernigerode I eventually depart with apprehension on the correct train.
What Did I Learn ?
Ah, it’s all so much easier when you have a map to look at and can communicate with someone. Relying on Wi-Fi and speaking loudly in English is a recipe for disaster in the remote areas of the Harz Mountains.
Conclusions
At 4.30pm I eventually arrive exhausted at Wernigerode, having spent most of the day sitting in hard wooden train carriages trying to view scenery through incessant lines of trees and having no idea where I actually am – All in all however, it is a highly recommended experience for anyone who is totally obsessed with steam trains – just don’t forget to take a map.
Time For Coffee And Cheesecake
As if by magic, Wernigerode station buffet comes to the rescue, with good coffee and a wide selection of cakes. I must confess though, even I can’t manage to eat the whole of the home-made cheesecake I am presented with – It is ginormous
Fully satisfied, I make my way out onto the platform to travel onward to the next destination on my way to the Arctic Circle.
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Where To Next ?
Hamburg is my next port of call – some three train rides and more than three hours away. It’s two Regional Expresses and one Inter-City Express to Hamburg Hbf, changing at Goslar and Hanover.
More Problems Changing Trains
At one level, changing trains on the DB Rail network is relatively easy. Detailed timetables are provided on all platforms indicating all departures and platform numbers. The vast majority of stations have both elevators and escalators connecting platforms to their cross platform concourses. Most stations are also equipped with multi language (German / English) electronic indicator boards. Similarly, electronic information panels are installed on most trains detailing the train’s progress along its route, together with a detailed listing of connecting services at the next stop.
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All a rail traveller’s ‘accessible station’ dream you might think !!!
However, the system immediately falls apart the moment you try to board a train. For reasons best known to the train company procurement personnel nearly every train operating on the network (apart from S-Bhan trains) has either it’s entry areas set at a different level to the platforms or are designed so as to require a change of level once you are on the train. This might not be an issue for most people but for the disabled or anyone like me, lugging around luggage, it presents a major barrier. – Be warned !!!
Anyway, four hours after leaving Wernigerode I arrive in the dark at Hamburg Hbf for the next stage of my trip to the Arctic Circle.
Do You Have Anything To Add ?
If you have visited the Harz Narrow Gauge Railway recently how was your experience. Please use the comments to tell me.
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